Drafting a new fitted shirt.

It’s been a couple years since I drafted my first fitted shirt. I really struggled with it, trudging through muslin after muslin until I deemed it good enough. My understanding of drafting is better now, so I wanted to draft this pattern anew.

The original shirt gaped at the waistline buttons and rode up to form a small, annoying tuck above the bust. Eliminating these issues was my primary goal.

For the redraft, I used my torso sloper with waist and bust darts. I added ease at the side seams, dropping the armscye 1/4″ as well. The side seam is quite sharp, so I blended it at the waist. It has about 2″ of ease so it’s still quite fitted.

I drafted a collar, too. For my first shirt, I decided not to use a stand which gives this shirt has a casual feel, like a vacation shirt. I cut the upper collar piece longer so I could hem it and attach it to the bodice at the neckline seam without an additional facing.

For the second shirt, I added a collar stand. After trying both, I think I prefer the collar stand. It’s more structural, crisp, and can be easily dressed up or down. It will also look nicer with a jacket, as the collar literally ‘stands’ taller.

I used all french seams inside, with a small 1/2″ hem. The construction is basic; the placket is double folded to the inside and there’s interfacing under the buttons and on the outer layers of the collar assembly. There are bust darts and waist darts on the front and back. My buttons are 2″ apart, with no button at the collar.

The first two shirts I made from this new pattern fit much better. No more gaping buttons or bust tuck!

Both fabrics are lightweight cotton from my local fabric shop but internationally produced! Isn’t that wild? The concept of buying local while also purchasing something made across the globe…I love it.

This Japanese fox fabric is perfection with the boxes and gold highlights. It’s even got a cute name – Fox Box. It’s from the Echino line for Etsuko Furuya. Their aesthetic is retro with nature thrown in – I really love their designs!

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This one is Stella by Cathy Turner; the fabric is from Australia. Cathy Turner is an Aboriginal artist and this gorgeous design is based on the Mayan monuments called ‘stelae’ – shallow reliefs carved into huge, upright stones believed to represent kings.

I started making the Stella shirt because the fabric suited the shirt pattern, but soon I realized it would be perfect for an upcoming event: Jeff Goldblum and the Mildred Snitzer Orchestra.

Listen, I’ve been in love with a huge fan of him my whole life. When I became a ‘latchkey kid” as a teen, I was allowed to rent most any movie I wanted. I rented every Goldblum movie the video store had (on VHS, even) and watched them after school. I got super, crazy, thank-the-stars lucky and scored tickets to meet him after the show! As I was sewing this shirt, I thought it looked like something he would like or even wear. So I wore this shirt and my black jeans to the show.

Jeff was charming and entertaining, talking to the audience between songs. It was an amazing concert! Meeting him was a magical experience, even my husband was starstruck. He was so kind and sweet, making you feel like you were the only person in the room for a moment. It was the best 3 minutes of my life. And yes, he does smell nice.

Thanks for reading ❤