10/24/21 Weekly Rally
Pattern Drafting
I’ve been busily working on a new garment pattern, the Captain’s Cardigan. This one’s been in the works for a while; I started last year and took a mental health break from it for a while. I wear one of mine every day, sometimes two if I’m layering up for chilly weather, so I’ve been thoroughly testing them and making variations during my break!
Returning to a project after a time can be challenging, like navigating a foggy maze. I have to figure out what I finished or started with drafting the pattern for the grade-able block. Thankfully, I left myself some notes to follow. I still had to add ease and styling to the sleeve and draft the collar. I’m also working on a cleaner way to finish the hem.
I sourced a new grader which I’m excited about. This pattern has two versions, a woven jacket and a knit cardigan, so there are a few extra pieces compared to the Shade Shrug. I wanted to include a sewing pattern for each because they’re so comfy and layer really well together.
Omitting Seam Allowance
When drafting a sewing pattern, it’s recommended that you leave off any seam allowance until the pattern is finished.
While it may sound tedious to measure and draw out the seam allowance every time you cut a muslin, it does make altering the pattern much easier.
In order to make accurate adjustments, you would need to remove your seam allowance and then draw it back on again.
This can become tricky when working on a curved sleeve cap or a dart, which can mean the difference between getting the right fit or fetching the seam ripper.
Be sure to label your patterns so you will know whether you added seam allowance when you use them later!
On a Personal Note
We adopted a new kitten! She and her family (mama included) were rescued by a friend. Her name is Naan, like the bread, and she is just too precious!
She’s getting along pretty well with our two other cats, who desperately want to be friends with her. She’s still a little scared of them, though.
Naan is spunky and independent – I’m sure she will be making an appearance in my posts (and my studio). I need to be extra careful about putting my sewing supplies away when I’m not using them so she doesn’t get into trouble.
Final Thought
Here’s a look at the first muslin of the Captain’s Cardigan sewing pattern. This version is a size 16, which will be used to create the other sizes. I have to make a couple of tweaks to the pattern, but it’s almost ready to be sent out for grading!
I ran out of muslin while working on this project (rats!). Once I get more, I can try out the changes I made to the sleeve and bodice. If those changes look good, the pattern will finally be finished!
Thanks for stopping by for my weekly rally! What projects are you working on? Let me know in the comments!
May your shears always be sharp and your bobbins full!
<3 Virginia
